5th
- 14th April 2012 - Malaysia
3483 – 3848km
Moonriver lodge
– Brinchang – Ipoh – Lenggong Valley – Bagan Serai -
Butterworth
The perfect
place for a break
Cameron Highlands, lush green tea plantations for miles. |
People often ask
us if it's difficult cycling with such heavy looking bags. Wash outs
and cattle stampedes aside, we tell them, it's not so bad. When the
road's flat and we're up to speed we hardly even notice them. Going
downhill the extra weight gets us where we're going even faster.
Going uphill is a
very different matter. Uphill is when every little thing in our
panniers unite to pull against us. It's tough, it's exhausting, and
yes, riding into the Cameron Highlands had plenty of uphill about it.
We spent the morning crawling along in first gear, going so slowly
that we were overtaken by two farmers casually strolling past us in
wellington boots. There's something very demoralising about that let
me tell you.
The Cameron
Highlands owe their existence to the old colonial days when pasty
British types needed somewhere high up in the cool hills to escape
from all the ruddy heat. Today the little villages that lie along
this high altitude valley are studded by mock tudor hotels, testament
to its past, where modern day Malaysian holiday makers now come to
chill out.
Besides tourism,
agriculture is the other big business here. As we descended into the
valley we past hillside after hillside of plastic sheeted
cultivation, great swathes of tilled soil spilling vegetables, and a
dozen farmer's markets. The cooler climate allows for crops like tea
and strawberries that would croak elsewhere on the peninsula. They go
mad for strawberries here. Every other market stall sells fresh
strawberries, strawberries coated in chocolate, dried strawberries,
strawberry jam, chilli strawberry pickle. If your frothing lust for
strawberries still isn't satisfied then you can buy a t-shirt, an
umbrella, or a badge to proclaim your love, and place all of your
strawberries and strawberry merchandise in your strawberry themed
backpack.
While we were in the Cameron Highlands, we visited a butterfly farm. |
I'm normally
quite cynical about such things, but I actually kind of like it when
hardcore marketing is applied to something so benign as a little
strawberry. I like the fact too that if alien archaeologists come
digging around here in five thousand years time they'll find enormous
cement strawberries standing guard at the town gates; artefacts of
the inhabitants' devotion to this fruity red deity of the many seeds.
The ride through
the highlands turned out to be a lot less work than we'd imagined,
and despite a few lingering up hill sections there was plenty of flat
and downhill as we made our way through the villages of the valley
until we came to one of the larger towns at the far end. Brinchang
was its name, and it was brimming with hotels. The competition
afforded us a bargain in a lovely room with a view across the town.
Hiking back with Ricky and Soph |
We spent four
nights in Brinchang, our days spent lazily wandering about the town,
eating fruit, catching up with blogs, and visiting the local
attractions. On one such wander through a tea plantation we met a
lovely couple from Scotland, Rick & Soph. They were on a year
long super-tramp, had already been to South America and some of the
Pacific islands, and had just got back from Borneo.
We came to a
pick-your-own strawberry farm, picked our own, then sat around
drinking tea and guzzling our harvest before ambling back into town
for a night of finest quality cheap-as-we-could-find red wine. We
enjoyed a couple of evenings exchanging tales from the road with our
lovely new friends with good food and bleak wine.
The perfect
place for a break-down
We set out early
on the morning of the 9th April heading back up the road
the way we had come five days before. The first half hour was a long
downhill into the cradle of the highlands, before the road rose up
again for an hour or more to the junction that led back down onto the
western highway, just 200km north of Kuala Lumpur where we had set
out east almost a month ago.
Moonriver lodge - Brinchang - Ipoh - Lenggong Valley - Bagan Serai - Butterworth |
As we reached the
summit and the road levelled I noticed a subtle change in the way
that my pedals were turning. They felt just a little bit rickety,
like there was a few grains of sand in the axle bearings making them
crunch a little as they turned. Something to get checked out at lunch
time, or later in the evening when we'd stopped, no doubt.
It's difficult to maintain a smile for the camera when your front crank is dangling loose, said the vicar to the nun. |
I set off again,
but then within ten turns of the pedals it began making a noise
probably quite similar to an oven being dropped into an industrial
waste disposal unit. The entire crank and front gears were wobbling
through several degrees as I pedalled, grinding the chain painfully
through first, second and third gear with every rotation.
We pulled over
and I got to work removing the pedal arms to take a closer look, but
it was pretty obvious that this problem was way beyond our tools and
ability. The whole axle was loose, the bearings were knocked out of
place, and the only way to fix it was to get it to a professional
bike shop – but we were 65km from the nearest town. Shit.
We were, however,
about 1500m up in the hills, with almost non stop downhill for the
next 55km. Who needs to be able to pedal when you have that most
dependable of allies – gravity – on your side. So we just rolled
through the whole afternoon beneath a sapphire sky, surrounded by
green hills that spilt down the edge of the highlands to the plains
below. On a few occasions the road levelled out for a kilometre or
so, but I just got off and walked the bike - at a faster speed indeed
than when we had climbed into the highlands a few days before.
The view on the way down. |
We pulled into
Ipoh in the late afternoon and found a cheap hotel manned by an
eccentrically happy and talkative receptionist. The first bike shop
we found said they could fix it in an hour, but when we came back
they had changed their mind, and said it was beyond them too.
The barrage of
optimism behind the hotel counter heard this news and organised a
lift for us into Little India the next day, where apparently some
master bicycle mechanic plied his trade. Sure enough, the guy knew
his stuff – his family had been running the shop for three
generations – and he replaced the offending bottom bracket within
an hour. Impressed, I got him to take a look at my handlebars, which
had on a couple of occasions in Indonesia come loose resulting in the
rather disconcerting effect of delayed-action steering. He released
the handlebar stem, took one look at the gnarled and soiled inner
workings, threw it away and replaced it in a couple of minutes.
Paeleo-cycling
We left Ipoh the
next day, pedals turning firm and true. We had wanted to check out a
temple on the outskirts of town that was marked on our map, but all
the hoo-har on the way in had left us disorientated so we had written
the idea off. Thankfully we were just disorientated enough as we left
the city to wind up riding right past it, so we stopped to take a
look.
Spread throughout
a sizeable cave complex, the Perak Tong temple is an impressive
sight; with a giant vibrant gate leading inside, where a 40ft golden
Buddha sits meditating, guarded by two gilded deities armed with a
sword and a banjo, dancing a jig over the souls of the dead. Down
through the passageways that led off left and right were statues of
the various figures of Chinese Buddhism, along with beautifully
painted people and animals on the stone walls.
The area around
Ipoh is well known for its caves, and has been in fact for tens of
thousands of years. Just a little way north of Ipoh lies Lenggong
valley which is dotted with caves that were inhabited by homo sapiens
some 30'000 years ago. We weren't really sure what there would be to
see there, but we decided to take a little diversion to check them
out.
This is what it feels like cycling up a hill fully loaded. |
It looked like we
might have to spend a night in one of the caves ourselves when we
arrived, because the only resthouse in town told us they were closed
for renovations when we arrived just before sundown. Liv batted her
eyelids and told the receptionist how frightfully scared she was
about the prospect of riding about in the dark to find shelter. Oh
please, we are but humble travellers, is there not something you can
do? They folded, and we got ourselves a lovely little room for the
night.
Lost down a jungle trail |
We spent the next
morning and afternoon riding our nimble, unladen bikes around the
lanes, visiting the local museum, and then getting well off road to
find some of the stone age caves. The museum wasn't especially
inspiring, but when we finally found them the caves were incredible.
After more than
an hour of off road riding down jungle tracks to nowhere, we finally
found our first neolithic cave. The entrance was colossal, towering
30ft above us like the gateway to some mystical land.
Hidden away in
darkness to one side it would have been easy enough to miss the other
little entrance, overshadowed as it was by the grand archway. We
unclipped out bicycle torches and ventured into the darkness of the
tunnel, where 8-bit squeaks of bats sounded from the roof, and
strange spherical crickets hopped about blindly on the batshit cement
floor.
The sign outside
informed us that the cave had been inhabited from 11'000 - 5'000
years ago, by hunter gatherers who ventured out onto the plains to,
well, hunt and gather presumably, and bring their bounty back to the
safety of the cave each night.
The tunnel went
on, not just horizontally, but branched off in diagonals into higher
levels. I had a sense of millenia melting away as I clambered up a
wall to reach another chamber, and as my hand automatically shot to
the next good hand hold I noticed that it had been smoothed by the
grip of countless other climbing hands over the years.
Although the
chambers inside were pitch black, and stuffy with an ancient earthy
smell, we could well imagine the people feeling quite cosy and safe
in this cool hideaway home, considering all the tigers, bears, and
prehistoric beasts of a toothy nature to contend with outside.
We came back out
and headed through the enormous archway and followed a track to a
series of other, smaller caves. These were much shallower than the
first, but fascinating nonetheless. We found what seemed to be an
ancient rubbish area, where a steady drip of water from above had
eroded the topsoil away to reveal hundreds of broken shells –
remnants, perhaps, of neolithic snacking.
Further down this
jungle walkway we came to another cave that was currently being
excavated, and had square trenches dug at various points. We read the
information here, and discovered that the cave was called Tiger cave,
since the archaeologists heard a tiger roar outside right after they
discovered it. Not wanting to find out whether these tigers were
still roaming about the area, we hurried back to our bikes and headed
back to the resthouse to enjoy the rest of our day off.
Butterworth
The next morning
we scaled the western edge of the valley and descended back into the
flats along the west coast. We were almost at the top corner of
Malaysia now, with the coast only a few dozen kilometres away, and
the Thai border just a few days ride to the north. Just off the north
west coast of Peninsular Malaysia, where we found ourselves
pedalling, there lies a small island where the British East India
Company first docked over 200 years ago.
Over the years
the cluster of fishing villages on this jungle choked island were
transformed into a sizeable British settlement, and marked the entry
point of British interests in the area. Nowadays the island's
capital, Georgetown, hums with life along its white walled streets
and draws hundreds of holiday makers to its picturesque beaches and
UNESCO heritage listed streets.
The journey from
Lenggong to Butterworth - the nearest city on the mainland from
Penang Island - took two days through flat, uninteresting industrial
towns. Our friend Rahim from Singapore had put out the word that we
were arriving in town, and we were invited out to breakfast by a chap
called Rickee-Lee who lived in the area.
We stayed a night
on the mainland side, and were picked up the next morning by
Rickee-Lee along with his wife and daughter. We scoffed a great big
dish of noodles with coffee, and Rickee-Lee told us about his plan to
embark on a tour not too dissimilar from ours, by heading to China
via Thailand and Laos, and back again through Vietnam starting in
just a couple of months.
We spent the
morning ambling around the local market, trying some snacks, jostling
through the crowds, and watching the superfast cleaving of chickens
ready for sale. Rickee-Lee and his family were very kind to us,
giving us some pointers for cheap accommodation in Georgetown, and
lending us a detailed map of the island before dropping us back at
our hotel.
We waved them
goodbye, saddled the bikes up, and made our way towards the small
ferry port just off the highway. We were very close to the border,
but still had two weeks grace on our Malaysian visa so we had plenty
of time to get a taste of Penang Island, the Pearl of the Orient. We
rode into the cargo hold of the time-worn vessel and gazed out at the
glittering blue water as we rumbled towards the steep sloped island
of Penang.
Nicely written about Malaysia. Not many people know the places you went, neither venture Lenggong's interiot, not even the locals. Bravo guys.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the kind words Mustafa. We both really loved Malaysia, and Lenggong was excellent. I think it's actually very easy to explore these little known places by bike, because once you're cycling through an area you end up riding right passed these places anyway, so it's so easy to visit these out of the way places (like Lenggong, Kuala Koh, Kuala Selangor etc). Robin
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